To contact Roz at Basthabda, please phone 01604 454145 or mobile: 07883031453.
e-mail rozz@basthabda.co.uk
e-mail rozz@basthabda.co.uk
CAIRO 2003
This has been the most difficult trip to arrange so far, with several very concerned people thinking they would rather be at home than in a country where they may be threatened due to the conflict in Iraq. I had never been to Egypt and it was a huge responsibility for me to be taking so many people into the unknown.
All I could do was to keep in constant touch with the Foreign Office and keep within their guidelines as to what to do. I also checked with other dancers who had recently been in Cairo.
This however did not stop the very stressful and concerned last minute phone calls. I think if I had been able to drop out myself I probably would have. However when you have others to think about it spurs you on. I did not wish to spoil the trip for anyone.
We had been told the guards at the hotel had been doubled and we would have the police accompanying us on all our trips. Also we should be extra careful in what we were wearing and cover ourselves properly. Don't make eye contact, smile at the men and we should not say we were British.
However the biggest worry for me was the professional one, I had never even been to Egypt and here I was teaching Egyptian dance in Cairo! Could I hack it?
After a long though comfortable flight we arrived in Cairo to be met by Mohamed who would be with us for the week, his first task was to track down one of our groups lost luggage. Next stop the Safir Dokki hotel.
Driving through Cairo in our very nice air conditioned bus, the first thing we saw was the vastness of the city. There is obvious opulence here visible in the extravagant buildings and shops in complete contrast to the donkey carts and sheep grazing on vegetable waste in the middle of busy motorways.
At the hotel we were met by the president of Aegyptus, he was very pleased to see all of us and explained other groups had cancelled because of the Iraqi war.
We spent a quiet evening in the hotel with our first introduction to the wonderful keyboard player/singer in the Arabic bar. Back in the UK I e-mailed the hotel to find her name was Dr, Naziha, however she always finishes her songs with 'Shukran' (thankyou) This is how I will remember her.
Dance classes are held in the hotel disco which is situated in a airless room in which we never did quite manage to get the air conditioning quite right. Again students were of all levels. Classes were for one hour each morning, to leave free the rest of the day.
Apart from the obvious stress of the war I had also been checking the weather forecast prior to our visit and was horrified to find we were going to be in the grip of an early heat wave during our stay. 45 degrees by Saturday... I didn't dare tell the girls and hoped the forecasters had made a big mistake...
The first day of our tour of Cairo started by meeting our two guides, Mohamed who had met us at the airport and now we are joined by Gamal, he tells us his name means 'handsome man'. Today is Coptic Cairo. It's getting pretty hot. You know when it's cold in the UK in the winter and you walk into a shop with those hot air heating systems, well leaving the air conditioned bus was a bit like that except we were going outside not inside.
I would point out at this stage that wherever we went we were accompanied by 2 police men, they became fondly known as 'Starsky and Hutch' as the week progressed.
I think we were all still pretty whacked from the lack of a nights sleep on our journey to Cairo, so the heat hit us hard. Fortunately we spent the day in and out of churches a synagogue and finished the day at the Mosque of Mohammed Ali, where Muslim pigeons have taken up residence and done a considerable amount of unusual Arabesque decorating.
I think we could have all murdered an ice cream, however it would have melted long before it had been fully consumed. I guess that's why there are not many ice cream sellers in Cairo!
It was suggested we try a nearby Lebanese restaurant for our evening meal. This was a first for most of us and much enjoyed by everyone. I couldn't resist another visit to the Arabic bar in the hotel to finish the day off properly.
The next day we had all been advised to stay in the hotel, as the demonstrations against the war had previously occurred on Mosque days, this was Friday, so we had been given this advise for our own safety. After breakfast and the daily dance class, we chilled out in various groups. Half a dozen came to my room, where I had some most welcome reflexology to avoid my prone to swelling feet from exploding in the expected heatwave.
Have you ever noticed how the ones who are most concerned about safety are the ones who don't actually give a damn? The Cairo Museum is next to the American and British embassies, armoured cars are parked all over the place, loads of police, we are told to stay in the hotel for our own protection, however everyone is adult and I cannot be responsible their actions. Several ignored advise and got taxis to the museum. Had anything happened to them, no matter what, I do not want that responsibilty again.
We were allowed out in the evening and a trip had been arranged for a dinner cruise on the Nile. Didn't know if there would be an opportunity for any dancing, we can always hope...
The boat is very lavish with a luxury buffet dinner, somewhat unfortunately accompanied by 'Mustapha Singalong', who has an endearing way of interpreting the much 'loved' western ballad. However most of the girls seemed to be enjoying it and joining in. Personally I prefered my friend 'Shukran' in the Arabic bar.
As we finish our meal, the band disappears and in come a small Arabic ensemble, this will be better I tell myself... Here comes a bellydancer. She has a few moves and a great deal of veil waving, not too much variety as it is fixed round her neck. At one point I thought maybe she would take flight as the wing movement was now reaching a crescendo. However she decided to invite some of us to dance with her, offering challenges to each of us in turn. We then saw a wonderful dervish performer, not like the Sufi Dervishes we had seen in Istanbul, this one was tuned for cabaret. He was terrific. Then came a couple of folk dancers clutching hoes, I cannot relate the history of this dance, I will have to learn. Next a pantomime horse in the guise of the two folk dancers and our bellydancer returned. She dragged me out of the audience to kiss the horse, which promptly dropped dead. I must have pissed her off a bit, sorry lady.
Day 3 dawned with a visit to the Pyramids after our class. I cannot describe the heat other than to say it was rather like putting your head into the oven with a fan on that was blowing as hot as the oven would go. Today it is 45 degrees in the shade. Hardly any other visitors. The people who rely on the tourists are having a very bad time. Everyone tries to sell you something. They surround you and make progress difficult. Eventually we manage to walk right round the great Pyramid and stagger back to the lovely cool air conditioned bus. (I think I am in love with that bus)
There is no need whatsoever to worry about public toilets on a day like this, no matter how much you drink it will all completely evaporate long before it reaches your bladder.
It would have been nice to see a blue sky, however the polution provided by Cairo Council obliterates the sun and the sky, the stars at night, all we are left with is a threatening hot very windy haze.
After the Pyramids we visited The Perfume Palace, we all managed to indulge in the products on offer. Very nice too. then came the Papyrus factory, again we succumbed to the beauties of the Nile and gave ourselves more goodies to carry home.
I was glad our shopping had been preorganised. It would have been very difficult to find all this good stuff by ourselves. The last shop of the day was the gold/silver, where you can have the ubiquitous cartouche done with your name on. Not my taste, I don't need to walk about with my own name hung round my neck, I already know it! However when in Rome, or Cairo you do the done thing and follow the crowd. Some pretty fab stuff here. However I did notice one or two complaining before they had even had a chance to look round. However everyone managed to enjoy the visit and purchases were made.
Dinner that night was at the famous Felfela vegetarian restaurant in the heart of Cairo. I can highly recommend this place, great atmosphere, great food. All it needs is some live music and it would be perfect.
Day 4, we decide to cancel the class today and make an earlier start to try to avoid the intense heat of the previous day. We are going to Saqqara and Memphis. Most of us found this more interesting than the actual pyramids. You should see Rameses lunch box!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped by a carpet factory / school, those of you who dislike child labour should really ask yourselves, what are the alternatives? Children are taken into the factory to learn a trade at the age of 9. They work very happily for about 3 hours each day and get paid about EL400 per month. Their schooling then continues for the rest of the day. This is a very good wage for a child who's education would otherwise probably have ceased at the age of 9. Fingers trained early make the best carpets. Personally I would rather see children work like this with extremely good prospects for a career, than have them begging on the streets, or even worse...
This evening we decided to have our dinner at the hotel, we have been given a very good deal for our stay and if dinner is as good as the wonderful breakfasts then we are sure to enjoy ourselves. It would appear the waiter is not at all used to people eating in his restaurant, certainly not 18 unaccompanied western women. He seemed to be having a culture shock even though we were well covered and behaving ourselves. However he manages to take my room number successfully, (first hurdle) next he has to takes orders (could be Holy) I don't eat bread so am the only one ordering a starter. After a while everyone has their main course, I still don't have my starter! The chef comes round to see if all is well, I am sitting with my knife and fork poised ready to devour anything that stays still long enough. After a brief chat with the waiter I get my starter. He then comes along with the bills. Where's my bloody dinner? I am getting desperate now and ready to chew the bones left by the person next to me. Glad I havn't had any alcohol, I would be well squishy by now. Ah at last my meal. Everyone has been very patient waiting for me (except me) I wolf down my lamb and okra, only to find it mostly okra. However I like okra. She has a very good talk show...
Yet again we all escape to the Arabic bar and the now familier strains of our friend 'Shukran'. We have now made other friends, two ladies from Dubai, who really enjoy our dancing. Another lovely day in Cairo.
Dance class dawns and I have a bad fall in the dimly lit hotel disco. I have been up most of the night due to drinking far too much freshly squigged mango pulp (they call it juice) The trek to the loo has now become a familiar trip not included in our groups itinery. I will point out that I was not ill, I just wish I had stuck with drinking water.
I am suffering a bit from shock due to my fall. A sweet lady from Cheshire slapped on an ice pack and did a bit of healing for me. Seemed to work as I didn't feel like doing anything except going to bed and I was now ready for the trip to the Pharaonic village and also managed to get through the class, most of which I dictated.
I was not sure what to expect from the Pharaonic village as some of our group had said it was like Disney Land... Well I paid my fee and had a really lovely time. The tour started with a barge trip along the Nile tributaries that are planted with papyrus, statues have been placed to give an authentic feel of ancient times. Scenarios enfold with actors and actresses depicting the ancient skills, like boat building, alabaster jar making and ploughing. After a considerable amount of these glimpses into the past, we alight to visit a noblemans house, then by complete contrast a farmer. Then for those in 'Rome' a chance to dress up and have their pictures taken as Queen and Pharaoh. As luck would have it our erstwhile guide Mohamed was very Pharaoh like in appearance and up for it after some persuasion. The 'Romans' had a Pharaoh to pose with.
Not everyone had come on the Pharaonic village trip, some had felt the pull of the Khan El Khalili bazaar and even though we had previously managed a couple of 'policed' trips did take taxis and inbibe in the incurable habit of retail therapy. They were accomanied by the taxi drivers throughout their meanderings in the bazaar. Others had been elsewhere, who knows. However I would say the absentees had missed a truly remarkable experience. The guy who thought up the Pharaonic village is to be commended. Even though you are not looking at the real thing it gives you a pretty good grasp of the lives of the Ancient Egyptians.
Time was getting pretty short now, tonight we return to the Pyramids for the Sound and Light show. I don't think anyone can possibly object to that. We have just a few minutes at the hotel to collect our wits and bits, then it's back on the bus to another wonderful experience.
Again I am stunned by the lack of tourists. This place should be packed, there are just a handfull of people to see this wonder of the world combined with modern technology. This Sphinx guy certainly has some sound system! I tried to take photos, however my latest digital catastrophy lets me down and I see stars when my flash goes off. I know I am out of range for the cameras abilty, but it is so fabulous I have to try. Later when I process the pictures I work out what the stars are. I have to enhance them to such a degree to see the Pyramids are speckled with round disks. The stars I had seen when my flash went off was the silica in the air reflecting the flash. Pretty strange effects.
The last day of our holiday, we are supposed to all go to the Egyptian museum. I have had an urgent phone call to say some friends want to meet me in Cairo. I feel bad that I am not going with the crowd, however this is important.
The disco at Safir Dokki sees our last class for this visit and we do our little performances, joined by a member of the staff who delights in dancing to a Hakim track for us. Most of the group go off to the Cairo Museum and I wait for my Egyptian friends.
It is 3.30pm (Egyptian 1.00pm) by the time my friends arrive. They bundle me into a taxi, a treat I have so far only managed to observe from the security of the Aegyptus air conditioned bus. These black and white anti deluvian Trebants and Ladas, convey all and sundry round the city like obsessed ants. My friends assumed the best place for them to take me was to the Khan El Khalili bazaar yet again to spend even more money on costumes. Also I must drink even more of the amazing laxative known forever as 'womango to toilet'.
I very soon discovered I was far better at this bartering than my friends and managed to buy a couple more dresses. I was very disappointed to find the best costumes were not for sale to everyone as someone in the UK already had them...
I decided as time was again racing round the clock to cut short my visit to Cairo and that we should get a taxi back to the hotel, I would pay this time and take my friends for dinner in the Arabic bar at the hotel. However I suggested they come up to my room to freshen up (They are a newly married couple) when they saw my room with nice double bed they began to get thoughts of home and bedtime. I wondered if I should leave them alone for an hour, however people would be looking for me, so we went down to dinner with them clutching my unread copy of Cosmopolitan as if there lives depended on it. I suppose it was Haram to give it them, but they can't even read English. I suppose they will now have the incentive to learn.
After a huge meal I manage to persuade them I have to get some sleep before the departure for the airport at 1.00am. but as soon as I lie down the phone rings, again and again.
To conclude the president of Aegyptus asked me down for a drink, he is pleased with our visit and that we came despite all odds. He wants me to do another tour next Spring, this time we shall be flying to Luxor, then taking our own personal boat (with swimming pool) to Aswan. This will be full board with classes held on the boat. The sightseeing tours will be from the boat each day.
I hope some of you will join me, we need at least 30 people to make it worth hiring the boat. Let me know ASAP if you want me to put your name down.
I can highly recommend these tours and the hotel we stayed in. If you are thinking of going to Egypt in the near future, I hope you will not be put off by the Iraqi situation. You will be very well looked after. Just observe the customs and respect the people.
Roz.
All I could do was to keep in constant touch with the Foreign Office and keep within their guidelines as to what to do. I also checked with other dancers who had recently been in Cairo.
This however did not stop the very stressful and concerned last minute phone calls. I think if I had been able to drop out myself I probably would have. However when you have others to think about it spurs you on. I did not wish to spoil the trip for anyone.
We had been told the guards at the hotel had been doubled and we would have the police accompanying us on all our trips. Also we should be extra careful in what we were wearing and cover ourselves properly. Don't make eye contact, smile at the men and we should not say we were British.
However the biggest worry for me was the professional one, I had never even been to Egypt and here I was teaching Egyptian dance in Cairo! Could I hack it?
After a long though comfortable flight we arrived in Cairo to be met by Mohamed who would be with us for the week, his first task was to track down one of our groups lost luggage. Next stop the Safir Dokki hotel.
Driving through Cairo in our very nice air conditioned bus, the first thing we saw was the vastness of the city. There is obvious opulence here visible in the extravagant buildings and shops in complete contrast to the donkey carts and sheep grazing on vegetable waste in the middle of busy motorways.
At the hotel we were met by the president of Aegyptus, he was very pleased to see all of us and explained other groups had cancelled because of the Iraqi war.
We spent a quiet evening in the hotel with our first introduction to the wonderful keyboard player/singer in the Arabic bar. Back in the UK I e-mailed the hotel to find her name was Dr, Naziha, however she always finishes her songs with 'Shukran' (thankyou) This is how I will remember her.
Dance classes are held in the hotel disco which is situated in a airless room in which we never did quite manage to get the air conditioning quite right. Again students were of all levels. Classes were for one hour each morning, to leave free the rest of the day.
Apart from the obvious stress of the war I had also been checking the weather forecast prior to our visit and was horrified to find we were going to be in the grip of an early heat wave during our stay. 45 degrees by Saturday... I didn't dare tell the girls and hoped the forecasters had made a big mistake...
The first day of our tour of Cairo started by meeting our two guides, Mohamed who had met us at the airport and now we are joined by Gamal, he tells us his name means 'handsome man'. Today is Coptic Cairo. It's getting pretty hot. You know when it's cold in the UK in the winter and you walk into a shop with those hot air heating systems, well leaving the air conditioned bus was a bit like that except we were going outside not inside.
I would point out at this stage that wherever we went we were accompanied by 2 police men, they became fondly known as 'Starsky and Hutch' as the week progressed.
I think we were all still pretty whacked from the lack of a nights sleep on our journey to Cairo, so the heat hit us hard. Fortunately we spent the day in and out of churches a synagogue and finished the day at the Mosque of Mohammed Ali, where Muslim pigeons have taken up residence and done a considerable amount of unusual Arabesque decorating.
I think we could have all murdered an ice cream, however it would have melted long before it had been fully consumed. I guess that's why there are not many ice cream sellers in Cairo!
It was suggested we try a nearby Lebanese restaurant for our evening meal. This was a first for most of us and much enjoyed by everyone. I couldn't resist another visit to the Arabic bar in the hotel to finish the day off properly.
The next day we had all been advised to stay in the hotel, as the demonstrations against the war had previously occurred on Mosque days, this was Friday, so we had been given this advise for our own safety. After breakfast and the daily dance class, we chilled out in various groups. Half a dozen came to my room, where I had some most welcome reflexology to avoid my prone to swelling feet from exploding in the expected heatwave.
Have you ever noticed how the ones who are most concerned about safety are the ones who don't actually give a damn? The Cairo Museum is next to the American and British embassies, armoured cars are parked all over the place, loads of police, we are told to stay in the hotel for our own protection, however everyone is adult and I cannot be responsible their actions. Several ignored advise and got taxis to the museum. Had anything happened to them, no matter what, I do not want that responsibilty again.
We were allowed out in the evening and a trip had been arranged for a dinner cruise on the Nile. Didn't know if there would be an opportunity for any dancing, we can always hope...
The boat is very lavish with a luxury buffet dinner, somewhat unfortunately accompanied by 'Mustapha Singalong', who has an endearing way of interpreting the much 'loved' western ballad. However most of the girls seemed to be enjoying it and joining in. Personally I prefered my friend 'Shukran' in the Arabic bar.
As we finish our meal, the band disappears and in come a small Arabic ensemble, this will be better I tell myself... Here comes a bellydancer. She has a few moves and a great deal of veil waving, not too much variety as it is fixed round her neck. At one point I thought maybe she would take flight as the wing movement was now reaching a crescendo. However she decided to invite some of us to dance with her, offering challenges to each of us in turn. We then saw a wonderful dervish performer, not like the Sufi Dervishes we had seen in Istanbul, this one was tuned for cabaret. He was terrific. Then came a couple of folk dancers clutching hoes, I cannot relate the history of this dance, I will have to learn. Next a pantomime horse in the guise of the two folk dancers and our bellydancer returned. She dragged me out of the audience to kiss the horse, which promptly dropped dead. I must have pissed her off a bit, sorry lady.
Day 3 dawned with a visit to the Pyramids after our class. I cannot describe the heat other than to say it was rather like putting your head into the oven with a fan on that was blowing as hot as the oven would go. Today it is 45 degrees in the shade. Hardly any other visitors. The people who rely on the tourists are having a very bad time. Everyone tries to sell you something. They surround you and make progress difficult. Eventually we manage to walk right round the great Pyramid and stagger back to the lovely cool air conditioned bus. (I think I am in love with that bus)
There is no need whatsoever to worry about public toilets on a day like this, no matter how much you drink it will all completely evaporate long before it reaches your bladder.
It would have been nice to see a blue sky, however the polution provided by Cairo Council obliterates the sun and the sky, the stars at night, all we are left with is a threatening hot very windy haze.
After the Pyramids we visited The Perfume Palace, we all managed to indulge in the products on offer. Very nice too. then came the Papyrus factory, again we succumbed to the beauties of the Nile and gave ourselves more goodies to carry home.
I was glad our shopping had been preorganised. It would have been very difficult to find all this good stuff by ourselves. The last shop of the day was the gold/silver, where you can have the ubiquitous cartouche done with your name on. Not my taste, I don't need to walk about with my own name hung round my neck, I already know it! However when in Rome, or Cairo you do the done thing and follow the crowd. Some pretty fab stuff here. However I did notice one or two complaining before they had even had a chance to look round. However everyone managed to enjoy the visit and purchases were made.
Dinner that night was at the famous Felfela vegetarian restaurant in the heart of Cairo. I can highly recommend this place, great atmosphere, great food. All it needs is some live music and it would be perfect.
Day 4, we decide to cancel the class today and make an earlier start to try to avoid the intense heat of the previous day. We are going to Saqqara and Memphis. Most of us found this more interesting than the actual pyramids. You should see Rameses lunch box!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped by a carpet factory / school, those of you who dislike child labour should really ask yourselves, what are the alternatives? Children are taken into the factory to learn a trade at the age of 9. They work very happily for about 3 hours each day and get paid about EL400 per month. Their schooling then continues for the rest of the day. This is a very good wage for a child who's education would otherwise probably have ceased at the age of 9. Fingers trained early make the best carpets. Personally I would rather see children work like this with extremely good prospects for a career, than have them begging on the streets, or even worse...
This evening we decided to have our dinner at the hotel, we have been given a very good deal for our stay and if dinner is as good as the wonderful breakfasts then we are sure to enjoy ourselves. It would appear the waiter is not at all used to people eating in his restaurant, certainly not 18 unaccompanied western women. He seemed to be having a culture shock even though we were well covered and behaving ourselves. However he manages to take my room number successfully, (first hurdle) next he has to takes orders (could be Holy) I don't eat bread so am the only one ordering a starter. After a while everyone has their main course, I still don't have my starter! The chef comes round to see if all is well, I am sitting with my knife and fork poised ready to devour anything that stays still long enough. After a brief chat with the waiter I get my starter. He then comes along with the bills. Where's my bloody dinner? I am getting desperate now and ready to chew the bones left by the person next to me. Glad I havn't had any alcohol, I would be well squishy by now. Ah at last my meal. Everyone has been very patient waiting for me (except me) I wolf down my lamb and okra, only to find it mostly okra. However I like okra. She has a very good talk show...
Yet again we all escape to the Arabic bar and the now familier strains of our friend 'Shukran'. We have now made other friends, two ladies from Dubai, who really enjoy our dancing. Another lovely day in Cairo.
Dance class dawns and I have a bad fall in the dimly lit hotel disco. I have been up most of the night due to drinking far too much freshly squigged mango pulp (they call it juice) The trek to the loo has now become a familiar trip not included in our groups itinery. I will point out that I was not ill, I just wish I had stuck with drinking water.
I am suffering a bit from shock due to my fall. A sweet lady from Cheshire slapped on an ice pack and did a bit of healing for me. Seemed to work as I didn't feel like doing anything except going to bed and I was now ready for the trip to the Pharaonic village and also managed to get through the class, most of which I dictated.
I was not sure what to expect from the Pharaonic village as some of our group had said it was like Disney Land... Well I paid my fee and had a really lovely time. The tour started with a barge trip along the Nile tributaries that are planted with papyrus, statues have been placed to give an authentic feel of ancient times. Scenarios enfold with actors and actresses depicting the ancient skills, like boat building, alabaster jar making and ploughing. After a considerable amount of these glimpses into the past, we alight to visit a noblemans house, then by complete contrast a farmer. Then for those in 'Rome' a chance to dress up and have their pictures taken as Queen and Pharaoh. As luck would have it our erstwhile guide Mohamed was very Pharaoh like in appearance and up for it after some persuasion. The 'Romans' had a Pharaoh to pose with.
Not everyone had come on the Pharaonic village trip, some had felt the pull of the Khan El Khalili bazaar and even though we had previously managed a couple of 'policed' trips did take taxis and inbibe in the incurable habit of retail therapy. They were accomanied by the taxi drivers throughout their meanderings in the bazaar. Others had been elsewhere, who knows. However I would say the absentees had missed a truly remarkable experience. The guy who thought up the Pharaonic village is to be commended. Even though you are not looking at the real thing it gives you a pretty good grasp of the lives of the Ancient Egyptians.
Time was getting pretty short now, tonight we return to the Pyramids for the Sound and Light show. I don't think anyone can possibly object to that. We have just a few minutes at the hotel to collect our wits and bits, then it's back on the bus to another wonderful experience.
Again I am stunned by the lack of tourists. This place should be packed, there are just a handfull of people to see this wonder of the world combined with modern technology. This Sphinx guy certainly has some sound system! I tried to take photos, however my latest digital catastrophy lets me down and I see stars when my flash goes off. I know I am out of range for the cameras abilty, but it is so fabulous I have to try. Later when I process the pictures I work out what the stars are. I have to enhance them to such a degree to see the Pyramids are speckled with round disks. The stars I had seen when my flash went off was the silica in the air reflecting the flash. Pretty strange effects.
The last day of our holiday, we are supposed to all go to the Egyptian museum. I have had an urgent phone call to say some friends want to meet me in Cairo. I feel bad that I am not going with the crowd, however this is important.
The disco at Safir Dokki sees our last class for this visit and we do our little performances, joined by a member of the staff who delights in dancing to a Hakim track for us. Most of the group go off to the Cairo Museum and I wait for my Egyptian friends.
It is 3.30pm (Egyptian 1.00pm) by the time my friends arrive. They bundle me into a taxi, a treat I have so far only managed to observe from the security of the Aegyptus air conditioned bus. These black and white anti deluvian Trebants and Ladas, convey all and sundry round the city like obsessed ants. My friends assumed the best place for them to take me was to the Khan El Khalili bazaar yet again to spend even more money on costumes. Also I must drink even more of the amazing laxative known forever as 'womango to toilet'.
I very soon discovered I was far better at this bartering than my friends and managed to buy a couple more dresses. I was very disappointed to find the best costumes were not for sale to everyone as someone in the UK already had them...
I decided as time was again racing round the clock to cut short my visit to Cairo and that we should get a taxi back to the hotel, I would pay this time and take my friends for dinner in the Arabic bar at the hotel. However I suggested they come up to my room to freshen up (They are a newly married couple) when they saw my room with nice double bed they began to get thoughts of home and bedtime. I wondered if I should leave them alone for an hour, however people would be looking for me, so we went down to dinner with them clutching my unread copy of Cosmopolitan as if there lives depended on it. I suppose it was Haram to give it them, but they can't even read English. I suppose they will now have the incentive to learn.
After a huge meal I manage to persuade them I have to get some sleep before the departure for the airport at 1.00am. but as soon as I lie down the phone rings, again and again.
To conclude the president of Aegyptus asked me down for a drink, he is pleased with our visit and that we came despite all odds. He wants me to do another tour next Spring, this time we shall be flying to Luxor, then taking our own personal boat (with swimming pool) to Aswan. This will be full board with classes held on the boat. The sightseeing tours will be from the boat each day.
I hope some of you will join me, we need at least 30 people to make it worth hiring the boat. Let me know ASAP if you want me to put your name down.
I can highly recommend these tours and the hotel we stayed in. If you are thinking of going to Egypt in the near future, I hope you will not be put off by the Iraqi situation. You will be very well looked after. Just observe the customs and respect the people.
Roz.
For more holiday reports go to: OTHER HOLIDAYS
THE MUSIC PLAYING ON THIS PAGE IS THE SULTANS DANCE FROM THE SOLACE ALBUM "THE GATHERING SEASON"
ARTICLES INDEX ARAB WORLD GALLERY HISTORY DIGIART PRINTS HUMAN ISSUES HOW TO BELLYDANCE LINKS OTHER LINKS
For details of how to book for the next Basthabda holiday, please go to the EVENTS page.
